Everything we forge is carbon steel — 1095, J2, D2 and Damascus made from
1095 and 15N20. Carbon steel takes a keener edge and sharpens far more easily than
stainless, and in exchange it will rust if you leave it wet. The routine below takes
about a minute and is the difference between a blade that lasts thirty years and one
that pits in a season.
After Every Use
- Wash in warm soapy water by hand. Never a dishwasher — the
heat, detergent and contact with other utensils all damage the edge. - Dry immediately and completely, including the handle junction and
around any guard, where water collects out of sight. - Wipe acidic residue off straight away. Fruit, tomato, onion and
meat juices etch carbon steel within minutes.
Oiling
A light film of food-safe mineral oil once a month, or before any period of
storage, prevents corrosion entirely. Apply a thin coat, wipe the excess, and remove
it before the next use if the knife handles food.
Storage
Never store a knife in a leather sheath. Leather holds moisture
and its tannins are mildly acidic. A sheath is for carrying; storage should be dry,
out of the sheath, lightly oiled. This single habit prevents most of the rust damage
we see.
A magnetic strip, a block, or a drawer with edge guards all work. Cool, dry and out
of direct sunlight is the whole requirement.
Patina Is Not Rust
Carbon steel develops a stable grey-blue oxide layer with use. It is mildly
protective, it is not a fault, and many owners encourage it. Red-orange rust is
different: it flakes, it pits, and it keeps going until you stop it.
If Rust Appears
Surface rust is recoverable. Work a drop of light oil over the spot with a wine
cork or a soft brass brush — both are softer than hardened steel and lift oxide
without scratching. For heavier spotting, a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water
left a few minutes will break the bond.
Avoid steel wool and abrasive pads. They scour the surface and, on Damascus, flatten
the etch contrast permanently. Pitting cannot be polished out, which is why catching it
early matters more than treating it well.
Wooden and Natural Handles
Stabilised wood needs almost nothing. Untreated wood, bone, stag and horn benefit
from an occasional light wax or oil and a hand rub. Keep them out of prolonged damp and
away from heat — horn in particular can crack if left somewhere hot.
Sharpening
Hone first: most knives that feel dull are only misaligned, and thirty seconds on a
rod restores them without removing any metal. Sharpen only when honing no longer works.
| Knife type | Edge angle per side | Sharpen when |
|---|---|---|
| Kitchen and chef | 15-18° | It stops starting a cut on a tomato |
| Everyday carry | 18-20° | It tears rather than slices paper |
| Hunting and skinning | 20-22° | Once per animal, fully at season end |
| Camp and bushcraft | 22-25° | When it stops biting into wood |
| Bowie and chopping | 25-30° | After any session that rolled the edge |
Our step-by-step sharpening guide
covers the full technique, including how to raise and remove a burr, and our
complete maintenance guide
covers storage, rust and the longer-term routine.
If Something Goes Wrong
If a blade arrives damaged, develops a fault, or you are unsure how to deal with
rust or a chipped edge, contact us. We would rather help you repair
a knife than sell you another one.